Replica Cartier gold watches are copies of Cartier models. They are not made by Cartier. Most have gold plating over a steel or brass case. A smaller number use solid 18k gold. Solid 18k gold is 75% gold and stamped 750.
Gold content on a replica
Plating thickness on replica cases ranges from 3 to 20 microns. Plating below 5 microns can wear through at the caseback, crown, and clasp. A plated steel case weighs close to a steel case. A solid gold case weighs more. Gold density is 19.3 g/cm³. Steel density is about 7.85 g/cm³.
Sellers use these terms: gold plated, gold filled, PVD gold, and 18k wrapped. Each term describes a layer. None means a solid gold case. Ask for plating thickness in microns and the base metal.
Cartier models copied in gold
Common models are Tank, Santos, Ballon Bleu, and Panthère. Cartier makes Tank Louis Cartier in 18k yellow gold. Santos de Cartier comes in 18k yellow or rose gold. Ballon Bleu comes in 18k rose or yellow gold. Panthère comes in 18k yellow gold. Replica makers copy these cases in plated steel. Case sizes follow the originals. Check the caseback engraving and the crown cabochon.
Weight and feel
A plated replica on a steel base has the density of steel. A solid 18k case has the density of gold. A jeweler can test density or use X-ray fluorescence (XRF). XRF reads the surface layer. XRF can show gold on a plated case. A density test reads the whole case. An acid test reads an exposed area.
Stamps and hallmarks
Cartier gold cases carry 750, a Swiss assay mark, a serial, and a model number. Replica stamps can be shallow or misaligned. Check the stamp under 10x magnification. Check the crown. Cartier uses a blue spinel or sapphire cabochon. Replica cabochons are glass or synthetic.
Movement and caseback
Cartier uses quartz movements in Tank Must and some Panthère models. Santos and Ballon Bleu use automatic movements. Replicas use quartz, Miyota, Seiko NH, or clone ETA movements. A caseback marked Swiss made on a replica does not make it Swiss. Use a watchmaker to open the caseback.
Price bands
Plated replicas cost $150 to $600. Higher-grade replicas with thicker plating and clone movements cost $500 to $1,200. Solid 18k replicas are rare. A solid gold replica can cost $3,000 or more because the metal has value. At that price, compare against a used Cartier watch in steel or gold.
Legal facts
Replica watches are not legal to sell as genuine. U.S. trademark law covers counterfeits. CBP can seize shipments. 18 U.S.C. § 2320 sets criminal penalties for trafficking in counterfeit goods. A seller who marks a replica as authentic commits fraud. Buyers face seizure risk on imports.
Checks before buying
- Ask for plating thickness in microns.
- Ask for the base metal.
- Ask for the movement maker and model.
- Ask for the weight in grams.
- Ask for photos of caseback stamps under magnification.
- Ask for the return policy in writing.
- Use a payment method with dispute rights.
- Expect customs risk on cross-border shipments.