The Audemars Piguet ref 5402 is the first Royal Oak, shown in 1972. Replica versions exist at three price tiers. Their cases measure 39 mm across, the same as the original, but their thickness runs 9.5 mm to 12 mm against 7.9 mm to 8.1 mm on a genuine example. They use third-party movements. Audemars Piguet does not service or warrant them. Import and sale are illegal in the United States.
What the Ref 5402 Is
Audemars Piguet showed the ref 5402ST at Basel in 1972. Gérald Genta drew the case, bezel, and bracelet. The design was the first luxury sports watch with a steel case and an integrated bracelet. The bezel is octagonal with eight hex screws. The dial uses a petit tapisserie grid. Caliber 2121, based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920, drives the hands and the date. Early A-series cases measure 39 mm wide and 7.9 mm thick. Original retail was 3,650 Swiss francs. Audemars Piguet has not published total production for the reference. Auction results for A-series examples have reached seven figures at Phillips.
Replica Tiers and Prices
Entry replicas sell for USD 100 to 300. They use quartz or low-grade automatic movements. Mid-tier replicas sell for USD 300 to 800 and add a sapphire crystal and a decorated rotor. High-tier replicas sell for USD 800 to 2,000 and are listed as super clone or 1:1. Listings for the 5402 appear on wholesale sites that ship from China, Hong Kong, and Thailand. Case width matches the original at 39 mm on most tiers. Everything else is a copy of a photo.
Where Replicas Differ
- Thickness. Genuine A-series cases measure 7.9 mm. Replica cases measure 9.5 mm to 12 mm. Movement height and a flat caseback add the extra depth.
- Movements. Miyota 9015, Seiko NH35, and Chinese clones of the 2121 appear in replicas. Date wheel fonts and date window position do not match the original.
- Tapisserie dial. Low tiers print the grid. Genuine dials carry stamped, raised squares with a matte finish.
- Bezel screws. Genuine screws sit in a recess with a cut slot. Replica screws sit proud or use a hex socket with a different depth.
- Bracelet. Link taper, end-link fit, and clasp engraving differ. Count the links per side against a photo of a genuine example.
- Caseback. Engraving depth and the font of the reference number differ.
- Finish. Brushing direction on the case and polish on the bezel chamfer differ. Steel grade varies by factory.
Legal Status in the US
Counterfeit watches are illegal to import, sell, or traffic in the United States. 18 U.S.C. § 2320 covers trafficking in counterfeit goods and carries up to 10 years in prison for a first offense. 15 U.S.C. § 1114 covers civil trademark liability for sellers and shippers. U.S. Customs and Border Protection seizes counterfeit shipments and destroys them. A buyer who imports a replica risks seizure with no refund.
What a Replica Does Not Include
Audemars Piguet does not service, repair, or authenticate counterfeit watches. Replicas carry no brand warranty, no spare parts from the maker, and no auction house resale. Service depends on the seller or a local watchmaker who accepts the work.