Short Answer
The Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 16600 is a stainless steel dive watch. Rolex produced it from 1988 to 2009. A fake Rolex 16600 is a copy of that reference. Most copies come from factories in China. They use a clone of the ETA 2824, the ETA 2836, or the Rolex calibre 3135. Prices run from about $100 to $600. The helium escape valve on most copies is a fixed plug and does not vent gas. A copy is not rated for the 1,220 m depth printed on the dial. Import and sale of counterfeit watches in the United States is a federal crime under 18 U.S.C. § 2320.
Specs of the Real 16600
- Case: 40 mm stainless steel, about 15 mm thick
- Water resistance: 1,220 m (4,000 ft)
- Helium escape valve at 9 o'clock
- Bezel: unidirectional, black aluminum insert, 60-minute scale
- Crystal: sapphire, flat, no magnifier over the date
- Movement: calibre 3135, automatic, 31 jewels, 28,800 vph, 48-hour power reserve
- Bracelet: Oyster 93160 with flip-lock clasp and extension links
- Lug width: 20 mm
- Dial text: "Sea-Dweller" and "1220m = 4000ft"
How Copies Are Built
Case makers use 316L stainless steel in the low and mid tiers. Top tier copies use 904L, the alloy Rolex calls Oystersteel. Dial printing is done by pad printing or, on the top tier, by galvanic stamping. Lume is applied by hand or as a sticker. Bracelets are stamped or milled. Milled links cost more and feel closer to the real 93160. Movement options include the Seagull ST2130, the Hangzhou 6300, and a Chinese copy of the 3135. A Swiss ETA 2824 inside a copy is rare. Sellers who advertise a Swiss movement often ship an Asian one.
Tells on a Fake 16600
- The 16600 caseback is plain. Engraved casebacks are wrong for this reference.
- Crown guards on copies are thicker and have a different curve.
- Bezel insert fonts are wider, and the pearl sits too high or too flat.
- Date wheels use the wrong font. The "1" and the "4" are the usual misses.
- Helium valve caps on copies are sealed, have the wrong thread, or sit above the case flank.
- End link fit at the lugs leaves gaps on most copies.
- Dial text spacing differs. The gap between "Sea-Dweller" and the depth rating is the clearest sign.
- Serial and reference numbers between the lugs are cut with a laser on copies. That leaves a shallow mark.
Legal Status in the US
US law bans counterfeit goods. 18 U.S.C. § 2320 covers trafficking in counterfeit goods and services. A first offense carries up to 10 years in prison and a $2,000,000 fine for an individual. The Lanham Act, 15 U.S.C. § 1114, lets Rolex sue for damages and ask a court to destroy the goods. US Customs and Border Protection seizes counterfeit watches at ports. A buyer can lose the parcel and get no refund.
Swiss Made Claims
Swiss law sets a threshold for the "Swiss Made" label on watches. At least 60 percent of production costs must be incurred in Switzerland, and the movement must be Swiss. A watch assembled in China cannot carry that label. Sellers who call a Chinese copy a "Swiss replica" use the term as marketing, not as a statement of origin.
Real 16600 Prices
Pre-owned 16600 prices sit in the $8,000 to $13,000 range on the secondary market. Box, papers, and dial variant move the number. Service history matters more than the year of production. Prices change, so check current sold listings before you set a value.