What the 116613 Is
The Rolex Submariner 116613 is the two-tone reference: a 40 mm Oyster case in stainless steel with 18k yellow gold on the bezel, winding crown, and center bracelet links. It came in two main looks. The 116613LB has a blue sunburst dial and a blue ceramic bezel, the combination collectors call the Bluesy. The 116613LN has a black dial and black bezel. Both ran on the caliber 3135 and carried a 300 m depth rating until Rolex replaced the line with the 126613 in 2020. A replica 116613 has to be judged against those numbers, not against a listing photo.
Variants You Will See
- 116613LB: blue dial, blue Cerachrom insert with gold-filled numerals.
- 116613LN: black dial, black insert, gold-filled numerals.
- Serti dials and factory diamond bezel builds exist in small numbers. Most wholesale sellers do not stock them.
Movement Tiers
Three tiers dominate the market. A decorated Asian automatic, usually a 2836 clone, is the entry level. It keeps time but the crown positions and date flips do not match the genuine 3135. A clone 3135 copies the bridge layout, winding direction, and date change on the correct side, which makes the crown operation feel right. A superclone 3135, sold under names like VS3135 or VR3135, adds a free-sprung balance and better finishing. Ask which one is inside before you compare prices, because the same case can hold any of the three.
Gold: Plating, Wrapping, or Solid
Plated gold is thin. It wears through on the clasp, crown, and bracelet edges within months of daily wear. Gold wrapped bracelets bond a thicker layer of gold to the steel and hold color far longer. Solid 18k gold versions exist but cost enough that most buyers skip them. Judge the color in daylight. Genuine Rolex yellow gold reads warm and slightly muted. Cheap plating looks orange, brass, or greenish under the same light.
Case, Bezel, and Dial Checks
- Measure the case at 40.0 mm across and roughly 12.8 mm thick, crown guards included.
- Check the lug width at 20 mm and confirm the spring bars seat without gaps.
- Inspect the bezel insert for a matte ceramic finish and numerals that sit flush, not raised paint.
- Rotate the bezel through 120 clicks. It should move with firm resistance and no wobble.
- Confirm the date window magnifies about 2.5 times and the cyclops has an anti-reflective coating.
- Read the dial text under a loupe. Print should be crisp, evenly spaced, and aligned with the markers.
- Compare the rehaut engraving. Letters should line up with the minute markers on a good build.
Bracelet and Clasp
The Oyster bracelet on the 116613 uses gold through the center links. Check that the center link color matches the bezel and crown exactly, because mismatched gold is the most common tell. Solid end links should sit tight against the case with no rattle or visible gap. The clasp coronet should be stamped cleanly, and the safety catch should snap with a firm click.
Water Resistance
Most replicas leave the factory with gaskets that are not pressure tested. Have any watch you plan to wear near water tested by a local watchmaker before it goes in a pool. A simple pressure test costs little and catches a missing caseback gasket or a poorly seated crystal.
Price Ranges
- Entry builds with plated gold: under 200 USD.
- Mid tier with wrapped gold and a clone 3135: 300 to 500 USD.
- Top tier with wrapped gold, a superclone 3135, and a pressure-tested case: 500 to 900 USD.
Before You Pay
- Ask for QC photos of the actual watch, not stock images.
- Request a short video showing the seconds hand sweep, date flip, and bezel rotation.
- Confirm the movement model in writing.
- Check that the seller accepts returns for defects.
- Weigh the watch. Wrapped and solid builds run heavier than plated ones.
Legal Note
U.S. Customs and Border Protection treats counterfeit watches as prohibited merchandise, and shipments can be seized. Selling a replica as a genuine Rolex is trademark counterfeiting. Keep the watch for personal use, and never list or describe it as an authentic piece.