Answer first
A fake Portugieser hand wound 42 is a 42 mm copy of an IWC Portugieser with a hand-wound movement. The case copies the outer profile of the genuine watch. The movement is a Chinese hand-wound caliber with IWC markings added to the bridges. Case thickness runs 1 to 2 mm over the real watch. On most copies the power reserve hand does not move.
What the number 42 means
IWC sizes hand-wound Portugieser cases near 42 mm to 43.5 mm, based on reference. Sellers use 42 as a round number for the smaller case. Ask for the exact reference the copy claims to match, then check the dimensions on iwc.com. Listings often mix sizes from two or three references on one page.
Movements used in copies
- Seagull ST36: hand wound, 21,600 vph, about 40 hours of reserve.
- Hangzhou hand-wound clones: same beat rate, wider rate tolerances.
- Decorated bridges with engraved IWC text and blued screws.
- Reserve module on some builds. The hand tracks the mainspring on a few examples. On the rest it is fixed or moves with the crown.
The genuine Eight Days uses caliber 59215 and a 192-hour reserve. A copy with an ST36 gives 40 to 45 hours. That gap shows on a timegrapher and on the reserve display.
Case, crystal, and case back
Copies run 42 mm wide and 12 to 14 mm thick. Originals sit near 12 mm. Check the lug profile. Copies show a softer edge at the lugs and a wider bezel step. Sapphire crystal appears on top-tier copies. Cheaper builds use mineral glass that scratches. Case backs carry a serial and reference stamp. Copies often stamp a generic number that does not match the reference on the dial.
Dial and hands
Print quality is the first tell. Genuine applied markers have polished bevels. Copies use glued markers with flat tops. The small seconds subdial sits at 6 o'clock. Subdial spacing on copies can be off by a fraction of a millimeter because the movement does not share the genuine gear train layout. Leaf hands should reach the minute track. Short hands mean a mismatched hand set.
Strap, buckle, and box
Most copies ship with a generic alligator-pattern leather strap and a steel pin buckle. Genuine models use an IWC buckle with a stamped logo on the inside face. Boxes and papers come from third-party printers. A box does not verify a watch.
Price tiers
- Under USD 80: mineral glass, 21,600 vph, fixed reserve hand.
- USD 150 to 350: sapphire crystal, decorated movement, better dial print.
- USD 400 and up: ETA or Sellita-based hand-wound build with closer case dimensions.
No tier reaches genuine tolerances. A Swiss movement swap changes the beat rate and the reserve, not the case.
Checks before payment
- Ask for case diameter, thickness, and lug width in millimeters.
- Ask for a timegrapher photo with rate and amplitude.
- Ask if the reserve hand moves. Ask for a video that shows winding and hand travel.
- Ask for a movement photo. Count the jewels and check the engraving depth.
US import law
US Customs and Border Protection seizes counterfeit watches at ports of entry. Import and sale of counterfeits violates US trademark law and carries civil damages. The buyer holds that risk on every shipment.