Short answer

Omega does not sell a watch named "151." The number comes from Omega case reference stamps and from seller shorthand in marketplace listings. A fake Omega 151 is one of two things: a counterfeit built from scratch to look like an Omega, or a genuine Omega rebuilt with non-original parts. The rebuilt type is more common in the vintage market. Ask for the full reference number, a caseback photo and the movement serial before you send money.

What "151" means

Omega names its lines Seamaster, Speedmaster, Constellation, De Ville, Geneve, Dynamic and Railmaster. Numbers are case references. The reference is stamped inside the caseback and, on many models, on the outside of the caseback as well.

References that begin with 151 appear in Omega catalogs. The model and the year depend on the digits that follow the period. A listing that says "Omega 151" with no other digits is shorthand. It is not a complete reference. Get the full number, then check it against Omega's own reference data and against photos of the same reference from more than one source.

Counterfeit or franken

Counterfeit: the whole watch is made by a third party. This shows up in quartz two-handers and in steel sports models. Cheap tiers use plated cases, printed dials and unbranded movements. Higher tiers copy the case shape and stamp the logo.

Franken: a real Omega movement in a case, dial or hand set that Omega did not build. Vintage Omega parts sell loose, so a rebuilder can assemble a watch from a genuine movement and a redialed face. A franken watch can pass a caseback inspection and still be wrong.

Checks for a counterfeit

  • Logo and text. Look at the printed wordmark under a loupe. Fakes show thick strokes, uneven spacing and soft edges on the letters.
  • Seconds hand. A quartz caliber ticks once per second. A smooth sweep on a watch sold as quartz is a mismatch.
  • Date window. The frame should sit under the dial surface with sharp edges. Fakes show a cut edge and a misaligned wheel.
  • Caseback. Engraving depth and font change by decade. A laser-cut look on a 1960s or 1970s case is wrong.
  • Crown. Omega crowns carry the symbol. Check the diameter against the case tube and against reference photos.
  • Bracelet. End links and clasps carry stamps. Aftermarket links sit loose and show a different finish.
  • Movement photo. Ask for a clear shot with the rotor or balance visible. A refusal is an answer.

Checks for a franken watch

  • Serial numbers. The serial appears on the movement and inside the caseback. The two should be close, and both should fit the production year. A mismatch is a red flag.
  • Dial finish. A redial has printed text that sits above the original surface, wrong font weight, or "Swiss Made" that does not match the reference period.
  • Lume. Relumed hands and plots glow at a different rate from the dial. Old tritium fades and stops glowing. A 1960s dial that glows bright under a lamp has been relumed.
  • Case finish. Check the lugs and the case sides for a polish that removed the original bevels.
  • Parts list. Ask which parts are original. Sellers who rebuild watches will name the movement, the dial and the case if you ask.

Price signals

Vintage Omega quartz models sell in the hundreds of US dollars at auction and on gray market sites. Counterfeits from mass marketplaces list at USD 30 to USD 150. Higher tier replicas list at USD 200 to USD 700. A seller who offers a "Swiss made" Omega at USD 80 with a wholesale price list is selling a counterfeit. Omega sells through its own boutiques and approved dealers. There is no public Omega wholesale channel.

Before you pay

  1. Get the full reference number and the serial.
  2. Get photos of the caseback inside and out, the dial at an angle, the crown and the movement.
  3. Compare with at least two other photos of the same reference.
  4. Price the reference on completed sales, not on asking prices.
  5. Pay with a method that allows a dispute. Bank transfer and gift cards do not.
  6. Have a watchmaker open the case and confirm the movement number before the return window closes.

Unknown: the exact model tied to any single 151-prefix reference depends on the full number and the year. Send the full stamp to a watchmaker or an Omega service center for confirmation.