Quick answer
A fake IW323704 is a replica of the IWC Aquatimer Automatic, a steel dive watch from the IW3237 family with a roughly 42 mm case, an inner dive scale driven by the outer bezel, and IWC caliber 30110 inside. Most replicas get the case silhouette and dial print close. Fewer get the bezel mechanism, the crown threads or the movement finish right. Check those three points first, then judge the dial.
Know the genuine baseline
You cannot judge a replica without the original spec sheet open. Pull the IWC product page for the reference and note the numbers below before you handle any watch.
- Case: stainless steel, about 42 mm across, brushed flanks with polished bevels.
- Bezel: external ratcheting bezel connected to an internal dive scale, so turning the outer ring moves the inner one.
- Crystal: domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both faces.
- Movement: caliber 30110, a modified ETA 2892-A2 base, about 42 hours of power reserve.
- Water resistance: rated to 300 m with a screw-down crown.
- Lugs: roughly 22 mm between the lugs, with a fitted rubber strap or steel bracelet depending on the variant.
If a seller quotes a case size or lug width that does not match the factory sheet, stop the conversation there.
Step 1: Check the case and bezel action
- Turn the outer bezel through a full rotation and watch the inner scale move with it.
- Feel for even click spacing. A gritty patch or a loose segment shows a copied bezel with a weak spring.
- Check that the inner scale lines up with the triangle at 12 when the bezel is at rest.
- Run a fingernail along the case flank bevels. Sharp, unfinished edges are the most common tell on this reference.
- Look at the caseback engraving under a loupe. Replica engraving is usually shallow and lacks the crisp burr of a stamped genuine back.
Step 2: Inspect the dial, hands and crystal
- Check the applied indices for height and alignment. Slight tilt or uneven spacing is common on replicas.
- Look at the lume fill. It should sit flush and level, not domed or blotchy.
- Compare the date window position and the font of the numerals against a factory photo.
- Check the hands at an angle for a flat, painted finish instead of a faceted, polished edge.
- Look at the crystal edge where it meets the bezel. A thick, milky ring points to mineral glass or poor AR coating.
Step 3: Ask for movement photos
- Request a photo of the movement with the caseback removed, taken in daylight.
- Look for rotor engraving and perlage finish. Decoration on a replica is often stamped, not applied.
- Ask which base movement is inside and whether the watch hacks and hand-winds.
- Check the balance amplitude by watching the second hand. A stuttering sweep suggests a low-grade or worn movement.
Step 4: Test the crown and seals
- Unscrew the crown fully and count the turns. Less than two full turns means shallow, cut-rate threads.
- Set the time and date, then push the crown back in and confirm it seats without wobble.
- Do not assume a replica is water resistant. Have it pressure tested before any contact with water.
Questions to ask the seller
- Which factory built the replica, and which version number is it?
- Is the bezel mechanism functional or decorative?
- What movement is inside, and is a service history available?
- Can you send photos of the caseback, crown threads and movement?
- What is the return window if the watch fails a pressure test?
Red flags
- Stock manufacturer photos instead of photos of the actual watch.
- A price far below the normal replica range for this reference.
- Claims that the watch is genuine, or that it carries an IWC warranty.
- Refusal to show the movement or the caseback.
Practical and legal notes
A replica is not an IWC. It carries no manufacturer warranty, no service entitlement and no assured parts supply. Selling counterfeit goods is illegal in the United States and most other markets, and shipments can be seized by customs. Treat any replica purchase as a private, uninsured transaction and budget for a movement service on arrival.