Short answer
The Drive de Cartier listed as 38588 is a replica of a cushion-shaped Cartier with a guilloché dial, Roman numerals, and a fluted crown set with a sapphire cabochon. Replica sellers use 38588 as a catalog label rather than a strict reference, so the same code can cover the large automatic model, the Extra-Flat model, or a 36 mm mid-size copy. Two numbers decide whether the watch is worth the money: case thickness and movement beat rate. A 38588 copy with a Miyota 9015 or a Seagull ST2130 running at 28,800 vibrations per hour keeps time well. A copy with an unbranded 21,600 vph movement will lose or gain minutes each day.
What the genuine watch looks like
Cartier launched the Drive de Cartier in 2016 as a men's dress watch with a rounded square case, a crown that flows into the case band, and a dial split between a guilloché center and a smooth outer ring. The large model measures about 40 mm by 40.8 mm. The Extra-Flat version measures about 38 mm by 39 mm and stands roughly 6.6 mm tall, which makes it one of the thinnest watches in that price bracket. Both use applied Roman numerals, blued steel sword hands, and a sapphire cabochon in the crown. Those details are what a replica has to copy, and they are also where most copies fail.
Movements used in the genuine line
The large automatic Drive runs the Cartier 1904 MC, an in-house automatic with a 48-hour power reserve and a beat rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The Extra-Flat runs the 430 MC, a hand-wound caliber with a power reserve of about 40 hours. Replica builders cannot source either caliber, so they substitute clones. The best substitutes are the Miyota 9015 and the Seagull ST2130, both of which run at 28,800 vph and accept parts. The weakest builds use a 21,600 vph movement with plastic parts in the keyless works.
Inspection steps
- Measure the case across its widest point and compare the result with the size stated in the listing.
- Check the case thickness with a caliper, since an automatic 38588 copy should sit near 11.2 mm and an Extra-Flat copy near 6.6 mm.
- Read the dial print under a loupe and confirm the Roman numerals sit level with the minute track.
- Turn the crown and feel the winding action, because a fluted crown with a glued or plastic cabochon is a downgrade.
- Flip the watch and compare the caseback engraving with photos you trust, checking the font depth and the spacing of the code.
- Wind the movement, set it against a quartz clock, and time the rate over a full day.
- Test the beat rate with a timegrapher and confirm 28,800 vph.
- Inspect the strap stitching and the deployant clasp for sharp edges and loose screws.
Replica grades
Low grade builds use 316L steel with heavy polishing, mineral glass, and a 21,600 vph movement. Mid grade builds add sapphire crystal and a 2824 clone but keep the case too thick. High grade builds copy the case profile, the guilloché pattern, and the crown shape, and they use a Miyota 9015 or a Swiss ETA 2824. The price gap between mid grade and high grade is small compared with the gap in accuracy and finishing.
Care after purchase
Have the movement regulated by a watchmaker within the first month. Replace the strap with a genuine alligator strap if the original feels stiff, and keep the watch away from strong magnets. A clone movement with clean oil and a regulated balance will hold within ten seconds a day for several years.